Paul Avril Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 750ml

eRobertParker.com #217 Feb 2015
Hitting a natural 15.5% alcohol, Paul-Vincent¡¯s 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape is decidedly more elegant and finesse-styled now than it was on release, where it was more dominated by its tannic structure. Still a youthful ruby color, it offers up a perfumed bouquet of kirsch and blackberry-like fruits, licorice, incense, Asian spice and forest floor. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless, elegant wine that¡¯s lost all of its baby fat, yet still has a core of sweet fruit, fine tannin and a balanced, harmonious feel. It¡¯s not a powerhouse, and is drinking nicely today, with another decade of longevity.

Chateauneuf du Pape (CNDP) is the Southern Rhone’s most heralded appellation and is named after the town’s 14th century papal palace (once a summer retreat for the Avignon popes). The Clos Des Papes estate, not far from the palace ruins, produces one of the appellation’s most revered reds and is considered the benchmark wine for CNDP quality. It is famed for its complexity, a characteristic credited to the 25 individual parcels of land spread across the appellation – with a variety of soils and altitudes – that are home to its vines.

The domaine, which originally formed part of the papal vineyards, first started bottling its wine as Clos des Papes in 1896 under the auspices of Paul Avril, whose family had been producing wine in the region since the 17th century. Paul was succeeded by his son Regis Avril and his grandson Paul Avril, who ran the winery from 1963 to 1987 and played an integral role in the formation of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. Having contributed greatly to the reputation and success of Rhone wines, Paul Avril passed away in 2009 at the age of 72.

The current manager of Clos des Papes is Paul Avril’s son, Paul-Vincent, who according to Jane Anson has “built on his father's legacy to turn the estate from a local legend to a global star."

Meats, Lamb