Ch.Trotanoy 2012 750ml

Wine Advocate #227, Oct 29, 2016, by Neal Martin
The 2012 Trotanoy is clearly blossoming in bottle. Over almost 20 years of tasting out of barrel, I cannot recall a Trotanoy that has so surpassed its showing at en primeur. It has a well-defined bouquet that initially seems straightforward. It opens in the glass and reveals subtle red berry fruit, truffle and ferrous aromas. There is stunning definition and poise here. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin. There is a core of wonderful Cabernet Franc here, the acidity extremely well judged with a precise, sustained finish. This is a sophisticated Pomerol with élan and no more, no less than a fabulous Trotanoy.

At this time the Giraud land was referred to as Trop-Ennuie, as evidenced by documents from the late 18th century; literally translating as "too annoying" it is commonly said that it refers to the Trotanoy soils which, being a mix of thick clay and gravel, are tiresome to work, either by hand or by plough. Nevertheless the work must have paid some dividends because during the 19th century the estate was comfortably positioned with the best of the appellation, including Vieux Château Certan and La Conseillante. It was also one of the largest, with 25 hectares to its name, and naturally there was a sizeable production to match, although this was destined to change. From 1898 the estate became more parcellated, due in part to the Napoleonic rules of inheritance and also to inheritance taxes, which saw some of the vineyards sold off. With world war and economic decline this trend would only continue, and after just 30 years the estate, now incorporated as the Société Civile du Château Trotanoy, was reduced to less than half its previous size, just 11 hectares. The Giraud era was drawing to a close.
The first change of hands, after more than two centuries, came shortly after World War II when the Girauds sold to the Pecresse family. Small-time viticulteurs who owned a number of other minor properties, the new proprietors did not hold onto their acquisition for long; in 1953 it was sold once again, this time coming to the Moueix family of Libourne. It was Jean-Pierre Moueix that struck the deal, and today the property is administered, managed and marketed by the next two generations of this right bank dynasty, Christian and Edouard Moueix, on who I have already given a little more history in my Petrus profile, as well as Christian's cousin Jean-Jacques Moueix, who resides at the property.

Meats, Beef and Venison