Ch.Trotanoy 1990 3000ml

The Wine Advocate # 231, 1st Jul 2017
Tasted at the Trotanoy vertical in Hong Kong, the 1990 Trotanoy has long been a superior wine to the 1989. Here it has a gorgeous bouquet with blackberries, mulberry truffle and clove, demonstrating commendable vigor given its age. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, but quite firm in structure, robed in velvety tannins that gently grip the mouth. There is very fine density here, building towards a muscular finish that displays the style of Trotanoy with much more confidence than the 1989, which seems almost meek by comparison. It is now beginning to reach its peak so there is no need to cellar for longer, yet I can see this drinking well for another 15-20 years.

At this time the Giraud land was referred to as Trop-Ennuie, as evidenced by documents from the late 18th century; literally translating as "too annoying" it is commonly said that it refers to the Trotanoy soils which, being a mix of thick clay and gravel, are tiresome to work, either by hand or by plough. Nevertheless the work must have paid some dividends because during the 19th century the estate was comfortably positioned with the best of the appellation, including Vieux Château Certan and La Conseillante. It was also one of the largest, with 25 hectares to its name, and naturally there was a sizeable production to match, although this was destined to change. From 1898 the estate became more parcellated, due in part to the Napoleonic rules of inheritance and also to inheritance taxes, which saw some of the vineyards sold off. With world war and economic decline this trend would only continue, and after just 30 years the estate, now incorporated as the Société Civile du Château Trotanoy, was reduced to less than half its previous size, just 11 hectares. The Giraud era was drawing to a close.
The first change of hands, after more than two centuries, came shortly after World War II when the Girauds sold to the Pecresse family. Small-time viticulteurs who owned a number of other minor properties, the new proprietors did not hold onto their acquisition for long; in 1953 it was sold once again, this time coming to the Moueix family of Libourne. It was Jean-Pierre Moueix that struck the deal, and today the property is administered, managed and marketed by the next two generations of this right bank dynasty, Christian and Edouard Moueix, on who I have already given a little more history in my Petrus profile, as well as Christian's cousin Jean-Jacques Moueix, who resides at the property.

Meats, Beef and Venison