J F Coche Dury Meursault Les Perrieres 1er Cru 1997 750ml

Burghound.com, May 08, 2013
The beautifully complex nose is exceptionally ripe though not surmature with obvious notes of honey, peach and apricot though no exotic fruit aromas. The very rich and full-bodied flavors have arrived at full maturity with a lovely mouth coating sappy quality to the moderately powerful, mineral-driven and persistent finish. This is a terrific '97 that should probably be drunk up over the next 5 to at most 10 years as the initial signs of decline are in evidence though I stress that there is no particular rush. Consistent notes save for this most recent bottle which was the best that I have tried.

The Domaine was established in the 1920s by Leon Coche. Some vineyard plots with established grapevines were purchased and Leon bottled some wine himself.The vineyard land was passed down to Leon's three children, with Georges Coche taking control of his share in 1964 and continuing to run the estate and purchase new vineyard land. Jean-Francois Coche took over from his father Georges, on his fathers retirement in 1973. Jean-Francois's wife has the surname Dury which was added to the name of the estate.
Jean-Francois Coche officially retired in 2010 but there will clearly be continuity of style in the hands of his son Raphael who has been working alongside his father since 2003. There have been some changes already in the detail: the vineyards are now all ploughed, and a pneumatic press has been ordered to work alongside the old mechanical Vaslin.
The wines are firmly crushed before pressing, which must surely be a factor in the Coche-Dury style, then fermented and matured in barrels using a relatively low percentage of new wood, not exceeding 25% except for the very top wines.

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