J F Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011 750ml

Burghound.com/ Tasted: Jun 15, 2014
Unlike the Rougeots and Genevrières here the nose displays no reduction which allows the elegant, ripe and beautifully layered and mildly toasty aromas of mandarin orange, peach, white flowers, apple, anise and wet stone to shine. There is excellent concentration to the broad-shouldered and moderately powerful flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel on the mid-palate yet the hugely long and pungently stony finish is borderline painfully intense. I was actually quite surprised at how much better this was than the Genevrières as there was just an entire other dimension of depth and length. To be clear the Corton-Charlemagne is virtually always better but rarely this much better.

The Domaine was established in the 1920s by Leon Coche. Some vineyard plots with established grapevines were purchased and Leon bottled some wine himself.The vineyard land was passed down to Leon's three children, with Georges Coche taking control of his share in 1964 and continuing to run the estate and purchase new vineyard land. Jean-Francois Coche took over from his father Georges, on his fathers retirement in 1973. Jean-Francois's wife has the surname Dury which was added to the name of the estate.
Jean-Francois Coche officially retired in 2010 but there will clearly be continuity of style in the hands of his son Raphael who has been working alongside his father since 2003. There have been some changes already in the detail: the vineyards are now all ploughed, and a pneumatic press has been ordered to work alongside the old mechanical Vaslin.
The wines are firmly crushed before pressing, which must surely be a factor in the Coche-Dury style, then fermented and matured in barrels using a relatively low percentage of new wood, not exceeding 25% except for the very top wines.

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