Domaine Comtes Lafon Montrachet Grand Cru 1992 750ml

(with thanks to Bruce Khouri). After an hour or so of airI hints of botrytis frame knockout aromas of white flowers| peaches and green apples followed by penetrating| powerful| almost painfully intense flavors of limestone and citrus all nicely highlighted by the pronounced minerality and subtle acid backbone. Extremely pure| very fine and muscular with stunning complexity and a finish that goes on forever. Reference standard Montrachet| rivaled only by the Ramonet in '92 and still on the way up| which is a scary concept! A brilliant wine. Note: two other recent bottles| including one brought directly from the domaine displayed much more advanced aromas and a lack of focus| scoring more in the 92 to perhaps 93 point range and drinking perfectly now. Why the difference between these two and the bottle reviewed above| I cannot explain. To add to this| yet another bottle of solid but not sensational quality adds to my view that this may now be declining| even if gracefully.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon has the deepest and coldest cellars in Burgundy and they nurture some of the greatest dry white wines of Burgundy. Dominique Lafon is the leading producer in Meursault, producing wines of astonishing depth and complexity, yet supremely balanced as well.
The domaine dates back to the building of the house and cellar at Clos de la Barre by the Boch family in 1869. However the real creator of the estate was Comte Jules Lafon who married Mademoiselle Marie Boch on St Vincent’s day 1894, and was shrewd enough to purchase exceptionally well sited plots in the best vineyards of Meursault and Volnay, as well as a treasured piece of Le Montrachet acquired in 1919.
Dominique Lafon has been in charge since 1985, taking over a domaine which already had a reputation for outstanding, if irregular whites, and potentially good reds. When Lafon took over the domaine, most of his vineyards were leased out on a share-cropping basis. It was only towards the end of the 80s that he managed to reclaim all the vineyards and thus have full responsibility for them.The white wines are now consistently among the best in Burgundy while since 1989 the reds have reached the top division.

Meats, Chicken and Turkey